Welcome to New Canaan, CT
Written & photographed by Laura Benys
Note: A version of this story originally appeared in the November 2023 issue of Connecticut Magazine.
Connecticut is famous for many things. Lobster rolls with melted butter. Holiday movies. The fierce divide between Red Sox and Yankees fans.
But when bragging about our dear state, it never occurred to me to talk about mid-century modern architecture, a sleek aesthetic better known for places like Palm Springs.
Enter: New Canaan.
Just 45 miles from Manhattan, complete with a direct train from Grand Central, it’s a town that’s seduced generations of New Yorkers who utter the words “I need to get out of the city.”
In the 1940s, it was also home base for the Harvard Five, who I like to imagine as a sort of architectural boy band. Thanks to their influence, New Canaan now boasts nearly 100 examples of mid-century modern design, and is an important stop on the modernism trail.
As you might expect, the whole town is very beautiful, including its fair share of grand Colonial-style homes and horseshoe driveways. But there’s a lot more to do than just ogle real estate.
New Canaan has a thriving and walkable downtown, great shopping, scores of restaurants, and some truly special public spaces.
SEE & DO
When I hear about Grace Farms, my first question is what grows there.
The most accurate answer, if you’ll forgive the sentimentality, turns out to be peace.
The land was formerly an actual farm, but today it’s a free (free!) place for the public to gather, appreciate nature and slow down. It’s also a marvel of modern design.
I follow the undulating indoor-outdoor River building up the hillside, pausing in five communal spaces along the way. There’s the Commons, with long tables, a farm-to-table café and panoramic views. There’s the Pavilion, which hosts daily tea. There’s even a sports arena, ready for a game of pick-up badminton. An eclectic mix of students, baby strollers and seniors dot the walking paths. If you’re planning a visit, Grace Farms hosts a full calendar of community programming. Or just toss a journal and a good book in a bag and call it an artist retreat.
Next, the anchor activity of my day: The Glass House.
The signature work of the Harvard Five’s Philip Johnson, The Glass House is one of New Canaan’s most iconic examples of mid-century design.
Our tour group sets off from the visitor center (which also happens to be The Glass House Design Store) in a posh van. As we make our way onto the Glass House grounds, I pretend I’m on the bus with the Velvet Underground, whose raucous party here in 1967 was shut down by the police, and Martha Stewart, who still attends an annual summer soiree and, I like to think, causes a ruckus of her own.
Upon arrival, the house — which is truly glass on all sides — is a full-on forest bathing experience, and a love note to clean lines and natural materials.
I’ll never look at curtains the same way.
What else is there to see & do in New Canaan, CT?
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If architecture is your thing, New Canaan has a lot to choose from.
The New Canaan Museum & Historical Society is an excellent place to start, with a walking trail that connects eight historical buildings and museums. That includes mid-century gem Gores Pavilion, located in Irwin Park.
For something a little less subtle, explore the Tudor-style “castle” presiding over the 300-acre Waveny Park.
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Downtown, you can visit Heather Gaudio Fine Art and ARDEN + WHITE GALLERY.
If your travels take you past Waveny Park (see “Architecture,” above), be sure to visit the gallery space at The Carriage Barn Arts Center.
On the eastern edge of town, Silvermine Arts Center features a sculpture garden.
EAT & DRINK
In my informal polling of locals for where to grab lunch, I hear one answer more than any other: Rosie.
Twenty years ago, owner Rose “Rosie” Bonura was working as a private chef in New York, and reeling from a breast cancer diagnosis. She made a deal with God: If she survived, she’d open up her own place. She held up her end of the bargain with her namesake breakfast, lunch and brunch destination.
Located in the heart of downtown, Rosie offers two of my favorite things in a casual eatery: cookies the size of pancakes, and booze. It also has delicious tacos, sandwiches and a killer Sunday brunch.
The whole time I’m here, a steady stream of regulars comes and goes, all smiles. The flowers are plucked from Rosie’s garden. Rosie herself is the kind of person who blows you a kiss just for swinging by. “I believe in generosity,” she says. “I want people to feel loved.”
For dinner, I am saved from analysis paralysis by another local tip — this time, from a woman in The Glass House tour group, who insisted I check out Pesca Peruvian Bistro.
“Get the pisco sour, and you’ll understand,” she’d said.
I do, and she’s right. The signature Peruvian cocktail arrives fresh, frothy and zingy. Between the ceviche and the nautical décor, I can practically feel a sea breeze.
I send my source a telepathic thank-you. Locals always know best.
Where else should I eat in New Canaan, CT?
New Canaan has a ton of food options. When I asked around for recommendations, locals’ first response was almost always, “You can’t go wrong.”
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For upscale dining downtown, there’s Chef Luis (chefluisrestaurant.com), Elm (elmrestaurant.com), and Italian spots like Cava Wine Bar & Wood Grille (cavawinebar.com), Solé (zhospitalitygroup.com/sole) and Spiga (eatatspiga.com). Farmer’s Table (farmerstablenc.com) is a farm fresh eatery with a cozy ambiance. Dolce Italian Café (dolceitaliancafenc.com) doubles as a beloved coffee spot.
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For comfort food, pull up a booth at New Canaan Diner or Cherry Street East, or a stool at the long bar at Gates Restaurant + Bar.
Craving a slice? Joe’s Pizza has been part of the community since 1967, and Best Pizza Shop is run by pizza-loving transplants from Queens, NY.
For sandwiches, try long-time establishment Club Sandwich and newcomer New Canaan Butcher Shop.
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For your homegrown coffee fix, you can’t beat Connecticut Muffin (connecticutmuffinnc.com) or Zumbach’s Gourmet Coffee (zumbachsgourmetcoffee.com).
SHOP
My advice to anyone planning a shopping day in New Canaan: Don’t forget to hydrate.
There are too many boutiques and shops for a full list, so instead, I’ll suggest a strategy.
Step one: Park near Elm Street, somewhere between Main and Park. This puts you squarely in the walkable downtown. Step two: Pick one end of Elm to start. Step three: Work your way down and across the side streets till you reach the other end, or fall over trying.
Here’s just a small sampling of the shops you’ll find.
Still standing? I hope so. You’ll want to save time and energy for Elm Street Books.
Show me a community bookstore the likes of this one, and I will show you a vibrant town. It is big enough to have full sections of, say, poetry and design, and yet small enough to achieve that ideal of all bookstores: cozy.
Plus, the staff is a marvel.
In one brief visit, I overhear them recommend the perfect book for a 9-year-old boy (“Hatchet”), have a spirited discussion about an obscure novel a customer happens to mention, and then, as their grand finale, give me the perfect pick for my next read (“My Last Innocent Year”), based on the campus novel I just finished. All this without blinking or, heaven forbid, turning to Google.
It’s like a magic trick.
And that’s what we’re all looking for when we explore a new town, isn’t it? A little bit of magic. Some surprises and delights. A different perspective.
New Canaan has plenty to go around.